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Oil painting by Erika Alvarez from Convivir, Modern Mexican Cooking in Califormia’s Wine Country, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Convivir, Modern Mexican Cooking in California’s Wine Country

One testament to the success the Catholic Church had in converting Mexico’s Indigenous people is that few, if any, of their rites have survived intact except in some of the smaller pueblos. Of these, the only national festival period that is a true carryover from pre-Hispanic times is Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), which draws upon the Aztec custom of holding festivals celebrating death. The festivities marry the ancient rituals of the Aztecs with Catholic customs and symbols in a joyful celebration fueled with food and drink.

Día de los Muertos actually lasts three days, from October 31 through November 2, during which family and friends come together to remember loved ones who have died. While sweets, skeletons, and spirits are associated with both Día de los Muertos and Halloween, and the dates overlap, that is where the similarities end. Dressing in costumes and asking for candy are recently “imported” practices that occur in only a handful of regions of Mexico. Rather than evoking fear, Día de los Muertos is an occasion for celebration, complete with gaily dressed catrinas (skeletons) and beautiful altars (ofrendas) replete with photos of the departed along with candles, flowers, memorabilia, and some of their favorite things, from foods to tequila.

Although now highly commercialized, Día de los Muertos remains very family focused. During the holiday, Mexicans believe the living reunite with the spirits of the deceased, who are shown the path “home” by colorful marigolds. On October 31, the gates of heaven are said to open so the spirits of deceased children can return to their families for one day, November 1. All Saints’ Day, which honors Mexico’s myriad saints, is also celebrated on November 1. The principal celebration takes place on November 2, or All Souls’ Day, when the spirits of adults who have passed enjoy a brief reunion with their friends and families.

Modern Day of the Dead Rituals

Late in October, Mexican families begin preparing for the upcoming celebration. Streets are lined with market stalls selling sweets, the most famous of which are the intricately decorated sugar skulls (alfeñiques) and Day of the Dead bread (pan de muertos). Most people go to the cemetery (pantheon) and some even picnic at the gravesite, spending the entire night visiting with the spirits of their loved ones. Family members clean and dress up the graves, attracting vendors selling flowers and decorations. Musicians, hoping to earn a few pesos, come to entertain the deceased and their families.

A Guide to Elements of the Modern Altar

Decorating Día de los Muertos altars with personal objects of the deceased, along with food and offerings, most likely grew out of the Aztec belief that when people die, they travel through the region of Mictlan (the underworld) on their way to Tlalocan (Aztec heaven). On that long journey, the deceased needed food, water, and even candles to light their way. Historians believe these traditions may have become conflated with altars found in Catholic churches. Altars typically have three levels. On the first are photographs of the deceased, four veladoras (blessed candles) to guide the departed souls on(blessed candles) to guide the departed souls on their journey, their lights symbolic of eternal love, and seven additional candles representing the seven deadly sins. This first level is also where marigolds (cempasúchitl) are placed, the traditional flowers of Día de los Muertos. Their vivid orange-yellow color represents the brightness of the sun and provides a colorful path that guides the spirits of the dead, while their pungent scent attracts the departed to the altars prepared in their honor.

Oranges and other fruits are placed on the second level along with the intricate hand-cut paper banners known as papel picado (literally “cut paper”). These colorful banners also line streets all across Mexico and Mexican neighborhoods in the United States, where they wave in the wind in celebration of the freedom that death brings. Every color has a meaning: purple signifies Christian mourning, orange is reserved for Aztec mourning, white for purity, and pink for celebration.

The third level of the altar is reserved for recuerdos, favorite belongings or even favorite foods of the deceased. It also holds items such as a hand towel and maybe even a mirror so the deceased can “wash up” before “eating.” It is not expected that the dead will actually consume the food, but rather that their spirits will be nourished by absorbing the aromas and energy of the dishes and beverages offered. These often include mole, tamales, atole, and sometimes cigarettes and tequila. Typically, family and close friends partake of the food and drink and may even wear a favorite article of the deceased’s clothing while they do so. Pan de muertos and alfeñiques are also found on this last level, as well as an ash cross and incense (copal), both meant to ward off evil spirits.